Technical Front wheel bearings

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Technical Front wheel bearings

smart51

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I've had wheel bearing noise the last couple of times I've been out in the car, and today I jacked up the car and wobbled the wheels. Another job to do. I was surprised after taking off the hub nuts, both drums just came off. And I mean I didn't have to pull them, they just slid off. The bearings just push on to the stub axle and while there's no play, its probably just the grease filling up the gap. Is this normal? I would expect to have to use a puller to get them off.
 
I've had wheel bearing noise the last couple of times I've been out in the car, and today I jacked up the car and wobbled the wheels. Another job to do. I was surprised after taking off the hub nuts, both drums just came off. And I mean I didn't have to pull them, they just slid off. The bearings just push on to the stub axle and while there's no play, its probably just the grease filling up the gap. Is this normal? I would expect to have to use a puller to get them off.
In general most older vehicles with taper bearings just slide off the shaft, so as long as no wear on shaft should be OK.
You normally still have to tap out the outer rings in the brake drums, then reassemble correctly with new seals and high melting point wheel bearing grease, though don't overfill as can leak onto brakes.
Others can give model specific advice, but usually refit correctly and lightly tighten the hub nut, then back off a little until barely noticeable rock at the wheel, then secure with split pin or what ever is used.
If over tightened the bearings will fail!
 
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In general most older vehicles with taper bearings just slide off the shaft, so as long as no wear on shaft should be OK.
You normally still have to tap out the outer rings in the brake drums, then reassemble correctly with new seals and high melting point wheel bearing grease, though don't overfill as can leak onto brakes.
Others can give model specific advice, but usually refit correctly and lightly tighten the hub nut, then back off a little until barely noticeable rock at the wheel, then secure with split pin or what ever is used.
If over tightened the bearings will fail!
@bugsymike is spot-on with that; it applies completely to front wheel bearings on the 500. You really need to use a new nut each time you do this as it is secured by punching the outer flange into an indent on the axle. It uses a left-hand thread on the offside, which is identified by having a notched nut.
 
The new bearings came today and were straight forward to fit. The new bearings are tight on the stub axle and don't pull off with finger pressure, so I'm happy all is OK.
 
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