Technical Ducato JTD 2.8 Windows not working.

Currently reading:
Technical Ducato JTD 2.8 Windows not working.

rednwhitevan

Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2017
Messages
26
Points
56
Ok, I've read through some threads here already but still stuck
Both windows stopped working
all fuses, yellow 20 amps replaced. and 7.5.
I actually have a parts van so I have been able to swap parts and have swapped control box and door switches
have replaced 80amp fuse on battery fuse block.
not sure where to look next.
door locks and electric windows still working.
nothing from windows, no relay clicks or sounds just dead both sides.
any ideas?
 
Just done a voltage check on two 20 amp fuses bottom right in fuse box on drivers side, RHS, no voltage with ignition on. My understanding is that these fuses are direct path back to 80 amp fuse on battery terminal?
 
found my owners handbook with fuse numbers. have no voltage on F47 and F48 but to have voltage on F35 (7.5 amp)
 
Have you checked for power to RH fusbox B101, at large connector "A"?

Attached is an annoted copy of diagram, and my own presentation of B101, which while customised is still applicable.
 

Attachments

  • eLearn E3050 Electric Windows.pdf
    87.5 KB · Views: 14
  • Fusebox B101 Cab RH.pdf
    190.8 KB · Views: 12
Have you checked for power to RH fusbox B101, at large connector "A"?

Attached is an annoted copy of diagram, and my own presentation of B101, which while customised is still applicable.
I am reading your diagrams and trying to understand what large connecter A is? my next step may be to unbolt that fuse box
 
I am just looking at the circuit diagram again, the fact I have voltage on that 7.5 amp fuse F35 tell me the ignition is ok. The control box if opened is just a box full of relays, with an integrated circuit and some diodes to control things possibly the central locking to which there is only one tap. regardless i have swapped a good part out with no success. with those two 20 amp fuses having no voltage, the diagram tells me there must be a break in cable between fuse box B101 and the 80 amp fuse. This is a heavy cable coming off of that battery fuse block so I can see myself pulling my dash apart unless I am missing something?
 
Ok up date. checked main positive feed which plugs into front of drivers side fuse block found no voltage. re inspected battery fuse block and found id left a lead off. I think original fuse must have just had bad contact because I have re used it.
Now I have passenger window working but just a relay click from control module when engaging driver side window switch. frustrating. I may need to check door motor.
 
further update, giving the door a few good slams gets the window working on and off so seems a have a bad contact somewhere within the door or motor.. common problem? I hope it is in the door and not a bad connector under dash
 
further update, giving the door a few good slams gets the window working on and off so seems a have a bad contact somewhere within the door or motor.. common problem? I hope it is in the door and not a bad connector under dash

Always worth checking the loom where it flexes at the door hinge, especially as it's the Drivers door giving issues
( opens and closes twice as often)
 
Always worth checking the loom where it flexes at the door hinge, especially as it's the Drivers door giving issues
( opens and closes twice as often)
yeah I've just opened the door and window went up and down 3 times then stopped again. pulled loom grommet out of door and pulled the loom around in and out without any change. Slammed the door again hard a few times back she comes. then stops again, So I don't know what connections are inside the door but I think it must be something to do with the motor. a bit of a pain to pull the door skin off.
 
yeah I've just opened the door and window went up and down 3 times then stopped again. pulled loom grommet out of door and pulled the loom around in and out without any change. Slammed the door again hard a few times back she comes. then stops again, So I don't know what connections are inside the door but I think it must be something to do with the motor. a bit of a pain to pull the door skin off.
The only relevant connectors inside the doors are those to the motors, and switches. When replacing a door mirror, I managed to make a surgical incision in the door skin, and repair with tape, when connector had been replaced.

If needing to burrow into the door, may I suggest that eLearn for the x244 is a useful source of information. As a minimum you would need a Windows PC + Optical Drive to run it.
 
The only relevant connectors inside the doors are those to the motors, and switches. When replacing a door mirror, I managed to make a surgical incision in the door skin, and repair with tape, when connector had been replaced.

If needing to burrow into the door, may I suggest that eLearn for the x244 is a useful source of information. As a minimum you would need a Windows PC + Optical Drive to run it.
Yes I have been there before with the Elearn thing from memory you need to run XP to read it. rather irritating experience I found when all I wanted and still want is a full circuit diagram. That is something that you should be able to obtain from Fiat, but here in Australia at least they will supply you with nothing. They want you to take your van into their workshop and that's that.
 
Yes I have been there before with the Elearn thing from memory you need to run XP to read it. rather irritating experience I found when all I wanted and still want is a full circuit diagram. That is something that you should be able to obtain from Fiat, but here in Australia at least they will supply you with nothing. They want you to take your van into their workshop and that's that.
Yes, and in your country that could be many hours away.

I previously supplied you with a pdf copy of the appropriate diagram, E3035, extracted from my own copy of eLearn. I have spent a considerable amount of time preparing that and many similar drawings for my own reference, but I am happy to share individual diagrams when they may help. If you want more, you could try here. Be warned that some of the drawings are unreadable, and others contain errors. I particularly suggested eLearn, as it also contains a procedure for removing the window motor assembly. An advantage of using eLearn, is that when scrolling down from a diagram, the associated connector pinouts and wiring details are available. There is a lot more and forum member @Ocwobio wobio described using eLearn as, "like peeling the layers off an onion".
 
Last edited:
Back
Top