Technical Is there a special brake bleeding technique?

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Technical Is there a special brake bleeding technique?

smart51

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Today's job was to bleed the brakes, something I've done several times on several cars. I have never seen such dirty brake fluid come out. It did make it easy to see when the new stuff was coming through though. It didn't go well mind. I started with a one man brake bleed thing which but there's not enough space round the bleed nipple for the collar thing. The second time round, I did it the old fashioned way, with my wife pressing the pedal and me turning the spanner. I did each wheel until there were no more bubbles, but the pedal now goes to the floor before there is any brake force at the wheels. Is there a special technique I need for the 500? Especially for the hard to get to front bleed screws?
 
Today's job was to bleed the brakes, something I've done several times on several cars. I have never seen such dirty brake fluid come out. It did make it easy to see when the new stuff was coming through though. It didn't go well mind. I started with a one man brake bleed thing which but there's not enough space round the bleed nipple for the collar thing. The second time round, I did it the old fashioned way, with my wife pressing the pedal and me turning the spanner. I did each wheel until there were no more bubbles, but the pedal now goes to the floor before there is any brake force at the wheels. Is there a special technique I need for the 500? Especially for the hard to get to front bleed screws?
This is always cropping up and I dread the times when the brakes need bleeding. I had the same problem with a pneumatic brake-bleeder; unless the bleed nipple is barely loosened at all, air seems to get drawn into the lines. I think that part of the problem stems from the way that the brake-adjusters often don't keep the linings in the extended position.

Maybe it would help if the wheel cylinders were prevented from extending whilst bleeding by using cable-ties?
 
Im not familiar with this car, but with other old cars I have had some of this problem. I would try lathering the bleed nipples with grease prior ot bleeding to help stop air gaining access through the threads. The other alternative would be a vacuum bleeding tool that sucks the fluid out rather than pushing it in. Some old master cylinders had a bleed screw. It suggests air trapped in a master cylinder is not un known so a very vigorous shove on the pedal may help shift any air there?? Its no consellation but our 2002 Seat Leon is the same and seems to need pressure over and suction under bleeding before thepedal feels good. I take it you tighten the bleed screw with pedal on its way to the floor each time too.
 
It's done, thanks to a combination of grease around the bleed screws, an oil suction hand pump to provide some vacuum, a hose clamp to keep the tube on and removing the upper wishbone to make a few mm of extra room. I've only driven up and down the drive but it seems fine.

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