Technical 4x4 sump guard

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Technical 4x4 sump guard

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Mar 30, 2024
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Collected my Panda today (for reference a 2014 Twinair 4x4). It's awesome, I'll put some pics up soon. I've spent the afternoon giving it a massive clean inside and out including the engine. It wasn't dirty per se but I wanted to really go at it and make it mine.

All seems good except a couple of things. I'm going to give it a decent service over the next week or so (got the right Selenia Oil etc coming) and I'll also do the gearbox and diff oil fairly soon I think.

Only annoyances so far are the screws holding the part of the front arch liners to give access to the DRL units are seized but, meh, I can grind them off and replace easily as they just go into spire clips and I have loads of those (I want to fit better bulbs). I've not gone under it yet but when cleaning the engine I noticed that the sump guard did look a bit crusty and I actually broke a small bit off. Hmmm. I know it's had an oil change about 6 months ago (I want to change it again for peace of mind that it's the right stuff in there) so the guard must have been off.

I'm going to have a look and see if it could be maybe blasted and coated (I have a tame powder coater) or whether I need a new one. New ones seem to be thick end of £400 :/ Would happily buy a used one if it was decent but I also saw this on ebay. It looks different to the original but I'm wondering if it might actually be better?

 
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Ah, just seen this thread! Well, if mine is a goner (likely) I'll likely get one of these unless a decent used one crops up. Not planning to "off road" but might occasionally venture up dodgy enough tracks where knowing there's a guard there would be additional peace of mind.
 
There’s a British company that makes them for £150-200, the more expensive one has a removable plate to allow you to do oil changes without the need to drop the whole bash-plate
 
There’s a British company that makes them for £150-200, the more expensive one has a removable plate to allow you to do oil changes without the need to drop the whole bash-plate
Technically, it’s a British company that supplies them but they’re made in Romania. I don’t know if that means any import duty might have to be paid. They also reduce the ground clearance a little owing to the more boxy shape. But, they do look good.

The thread here shows one fitted, and mentions the import tax…
Post in thread 'My Panda 4x4'
https://www.fiatforum.com/threads/my-panda-4x4.504202/post-4715311
 
Technically, it’s a British company that supplies them but they’re made in Romania. I don’t know if that means any import duty might have to be paid. They also reduce the ground clearance a little owing to the more boxy shape. But, they do look good.
Ahh right, there was some being imported from Poland and Lithuania but both stopped after brexit…perhaps they took over!
 
Ok give in. Ive been under removed mine wire brushed it sprayed with rust converter protector. Sprayed with cold galv and a coat of Perodua metallic black... thats the one with gold flek. All bolts cleaned and coppered up. More dinitrol on everything too. It still looks good at 5 years old ( nearly). Now im kinknackered. er-ead. Mot Monday so some underneath bulls whatsit. Goes with dereusted and cleaned rear brakes. Now stop reminding me of jobs I should do.
 
Ooh, that's a good idea trying the dealer, never know. I'll do that tomorrow as I have a couple nearby.

I've had a quick look underneath this evening as I was doing the air filter and plugs (it's already running a touch sweeter!) and I definitely need a new one! Broke a big chunk off with my hand. Didn't try any bolts as it was getting dark. Will do so tomorrow but I'd hope they come undone given it's had oil changes!

On that score has anyone used suction to do an oil change on a TA? Just thinking that if the sump guard needs some "effort" to remove I could still do the oil which I'm keen to do so I know it has the good stuff in it.
 
Ooh, that's a good idea trying the dealer, never know. I'll do that tomorrow as I have a couple nearby.

I've had a quick look underneath this evening as I was doing the air filter and plugs (it's already running a touch sweeter!) and I definitely need a new one! Broke a big chunk off with my hand. Didn't try any bolts as it was getting dark. Will do so tomorrow but I'd hope they come undone given it's had oil changes!
Also from Shop4Parts (with a discount for donated Forum members)
 
Ooh, that's a good idea trying the dealer, never know. I'll do that tomorrow as I have a couple nearby.

I've had a quick look underneath this evening as I was doing the air filter and plugs (it's already running a touch sweeter!) and I definitely need a new one! Broke a big chunk off with my hand. Didn't try any bolts as it was getting dark. Will do so tomorrow but I'd hope they come undone given it's had oil changes!

On that score has anyone used suction to do an oil change on a TA? Just thinking that if the sump guard needs some "effort" to remove I could still do the oil which I'm keen to do so I know it has the good stuff in it.
I always try the dealer first sometimes you can be surprised. Some parts that you would thing would be expensive aren’t and on the other hand some bits you think would be cheap are just outrageous but worth a try
 
I always try the dealer first sometimes you can be surprised. Some parts that you would thing would be expensive aren’t and on the other hand some bits you think would be cheap are just outrageous but worth a try
Good prompt - I never think to call the dealer.
 
I'll give the two local dealers a bell later. I've just changed the oil using the suction method. With the dipstick being part of the fill hole it was very easy to get the pip down to the bottom of the sump. Worked a treat.

Got 3 litres out of the sump, so with what ended up splashed about :/, the bit in the filter housing etc (I sucked that out too) would have been just about 3.2 so I put 3.2 back in and it's showing as spot on on the dipstick and it's probably placebo effect but I'm sure it's running a touch happier.

Just the cabin filter to do now. Oh and I also swapped all the wheel bolts for new black ones. They were crusty and I also have a pathological fear of locking wheel nuts so have ditched those.
 
I always try the dealer first sometimes you can be surprised. Some parts that you would thing would be expensive aren’t and on the other hand some bits you think would be cheap are just outrageous but worth a try
Totally agree. Why go buy something likely inferior or not 100% to spec if the dealer part is priced OK. I have seen people on here buying stuff I wouldnt touch and paying over the odds. Very often OEM parts are overpriced, but not always so check first then decide, and get the best value. I find out who actually makes the OEM parts where possible and buy from them if possible which often saves money. With older cars you often have to buy whats available. The main thing is to be very aware of fake parts that are very common indeed. FOr brakes, steering and suspension buy only from well known and established suppliers and you should ensure you get what you pay for not a dangerous fake! In the resouces sectionon there is an OEM supplier chat for the Panda 169.
 
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Totally agree. Why go buy something likely inferior or not 100% to spec if the dealer part is priced OK. I have seen people on here buying stuff I wouldnt touch and paying over the odds. Very often OEM parts are overpriced, but not always so check first then decide, and get the best value. I find out who actually makes the OEM parts where possible and buy from tehm if possible which often saves money. With older cars you often have to buy whats available. The main thing is to be very aware of fake parts that are very common indeed. FOr brakes, steering and suspension buy only from well known and established suppliers and you should ensure you get what you pay for not a dangerous fake! In the resouces sectionon there is an OEM supplier chat for the Panda 169.
I've found similar with used parts. Sometimes what people want on ebay say for a used part compared to what dealers charge for a new one is comedic. I needed an engine cover for something once. On ebay, used ones were going for about £200. New one from Mercedes? £120.
 
Well, I had a better look yesterday at it. Not lifted the car yet but needless to say it very much needs a new one. Several bits where the bolt is still there with a bit of sump guard trapped but not actually connected to what's left of the guard itself! Oh and towards the back I can see zip ties! Hmmmm. The chassis parts etc all look absolutely fine so they must have had some of that metal from 70s fiats still lying about when they made the sump guard.

Called the nearest dealer (Marsons in Newcastle Under Lyme) and they can do the guard for £216 which is cheaper than shop4parts even after the forum discount so I've asked them to get one in.

I'll get the car up and see what I can do about removing the old one which is bound to be a joy. It'd be good if I could cut out most of it then go at the inevitably stuck bolts while still being able to use the car. Needless to say I'll put stainless bolts in as replacements with a lot of anti seize.
 
Well, I had a better look yesterday at it. Not lifted the car yet but needless to say it very much needs a new one. Several bits where the bolt is still there with a bit of sump guard trapped but not actually connected to what's left of the guard itself! Oh and towards the back I can see zip ties! Hmmmm. The chassis parts etc all look absolutely fine so they must have had some of that metal from 70s fiats still lying about when they made the sump guard.

Called the nearest dealer (Marsons in Newcastle Under Lyme) and they can do the guard for £216 which is cheaper than shop4parts even after the forum discount so I've asked them to get one in.

I'll get the car up and see what I can do about removing the old one which is bound to be a joy. It'd be good if I could cut out most of it then go at the inevitably stuck bolts while still being able to use the car. Needless to say I'll put stainless bolts in as replacements with a lot of anti seize.
I made the mistake of putting stainless ones in our boat hatch, they never rotted but, the rust around them gripped them tight enough to make them snap wehn I replaced hatch. There was no way I was drilling them out and, luckily, it’s a round hatch, so ground them all flat and reinstalled at 20 degrees to original…lesson learned
 
Well, I had a better look yesterday at it. Not lifted the car yet but needless to say it very much needs a new one. Several bits where the bolt is still there with a bit of sump guard trapped but not actually connected to what's left of the guard itself! Oh and towards the back I can see zip ties! Hmmmm. The chassis parts etc all look absolutely fine so they must have had some of that metal from 70s fiats still lying about when they made the sump guard.

Called the nearest dealer (Marsons in Newcastle Under Lyme) and they can do the guard for £216 which is cheaper than shop4parts even after the forum discount so I've asked them to get one in.

I'll get the car up and see what I can do about removing the old one which is bound to be a joy. It'd be good if I could cut out most of it then go at the inevitably stuck bolts while still being able to use the car. Needless to say I'll put stainless bolts in as replacements with a lot of anti seize.
Most of the bolts on mine sheared. I made up a set of "top hats", since I had access to a small lathe. they have a location boss on them, that centralises on the depression in the sheet, thereby allowing me to drill out the core of the broken bolts , central and at right angle/along the axis of the bolt and then get a bolt extractor in without damage to the tapped holes. I went with shot blasting and hammarite. Will probable buy a sheet of galv next time and replace the skin, but realise I probably have different skill set/background to most on here.
 
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